Large Maple - Marty Weiser
The tree (Japanese maple Acer palmatum) is ready for removal from the pot in April 2002. It is ugly due to die back and was listed at $50 in an end of the year sale in the fall of 2001. I got it for $25 and the promise that I would return the pot since the pot was worth more than $25. Estimated weight is about 250 300 lbs. A block and tackle has been set up to lift the tree.
The opposite view showing the brace to help support the unfinished trellis used to lift the tree. Notice the soda can near the base to give a sense of scale.
Lifted from the pot. A bit more than ½ of the root ball came up and you can see the circling roots on the right. This is the part of the pot that the roots had filled after they left the balled and burlapped area. The outer region and remainder of the soil in the pot was shredded bark.
The box into which the tree will be planted. It is 24 square on the inside and 10 deep. The bottom is covered with ¼ hardware cloth to provide good drainage. The soil mix is about 50/50 crushed lava (1/4 ½) and shredded bark (minus ½). The planting container should be prepared before the roots are cleaned so the tree can be potted once it is ready for potting.
After the loose outer soil composed of shredded bark was removed. The large number of roots that had grown into this region and the twine used to tie the burlap can be seen. Now the hard work starts since the remaining soil inside the ball is mostly clay.
The burlap has been removed along with some of the clay. You can start to see the root structure which is promising.
Most of the clay has been removed and you start to see daylight through the roots. I generally bare root all of my new trees at some point since many of them have been grown in soil that is far too clayey for bonsai. Such bare root transplanting is a fairly sure thing for maples and most of the deciduous species, but is far more risky for pines and other conifers. However, the roots will be far better if the tree survives so I do it.
Most of the clay has been removed and you start to see daylight through the roots. I generally bare root all of my new trees at some point since many of them have been grown in soil that is far too clayey for bonsai. Such bare root transplanting is a fairly sure thing for maples and most of the deciduous species, but is far more risky for pines and other conifers. However, the roots will be far better if the tree survives so I do it.
A side view of the root ball just before repotting showing the dramatic reduction. The root ball is now about 6 tall and 24 in diameter. The 7 foot tall tree now weighs about 25 lbs.
Top view showing the tree tied into the planting box. I use small sprinkler tube (black) over the wires to pad them as they cross the upper roots and go around the trunk. These roots are still fairly long and heavy, but I kept them since I had removed over 75% of the roots and the tree was not in good shape when I got in last fall.
The opposite side of the root ball. The surface roots are not nearly as good on this side. Root grafts will probably be necessary. The original soil line is very clear.
After transplanting. The pot was not completely filled since the root ball was only 6 thick. After this picture was taken, ropes were used to tie the tree to the corners of the pot since it was still 7 tall and the wind could easily knock it over in the pot in spite of the tie downs.
September 2002 - The tree as grown strongly this summer and has some sprouts that are nearly 24 long, including some from the trunk below the main branch. In the early spring of 2003 I plan to use these long sprouts for thread grafts in the main trunk. Later after the first set of leaves harden off I will airlayer many of the major branches since they are too heavy and too high for use in this bonsai. In the spring of 2004 I plan to transplant it again into a box that is about the same size (24 inside), but only about 3.5 deep. At that point the need for root grafts willbe evaluated.